Where Was The Kodak 35 Rangefinder Camera Produced? – Detailed Guide

Do you want to know where the Kodak 35 Rangefinder camera was produced?

Let’s look into it.

Where Was the Kodak 35 Rangefinder Camera Produced?

The Kodak 35 Rangefinder camera was produced in Rochester, New York.

Kodak 35 RF Rangefinder

A 35mm rangefinder camera was made by Eastman Kodachrome from 1940-1948.

It has a 35mm lens, but it also includes a new viewfinder, film counter/timer, wind and rewinding knob, and a separate rangefinder scope.

The rangefinder was developed in order to improve upon the Argus C series’ already impressive marketing results. It is quite accurate and easy to use.

What does RF mean?

RF means “rangefinder,” but it isn’t actually part of the camera’s official name. It’s just something people use to distinguish this model from the original KODAK 35, which doesn’t have a rangefinder.

Price

The Kodak 35 rangefinder camera was first released in 1940 at a list price of $47.50 ($715 USD in 2007), which was almost twice the cost of the Argus C2. It is easy to understand why the Kodak 35 rangefinder failed to gain popularity.

Specifications

• Data belongs to Version 2
• Aperture: Up to F/16
• Setting: Lens Shuttering Barrel
• Focus Range: 4-50 feet plus infinity.
• The Anastigmat is Kodak’s designation of a high-end lens. In this case, the lens is a 4–3/Tessar design. Excellent resolution and sharpness are achievable with this camera.
• Focus: Match the rangefinder images in different rangefinder eyepieces by rotating the focus ring or simply moving the front element of the lenses.
• Shutter: Leaf Kodamatic
• Shutter Release: On the lens-shutter button, with your finger supporting it for safety.
• Double Exposure Prevention: Before winding, you need to turn the winding knobs just beside the cocking knobs, and then immediately release them, when the red lever on the upper part of the lens-shuttering barrel shows that the shutters are set, if it doesn’t show, the winding knobs must be rotated.
• Frame Counter: on the top plate of the camera, additivity mode, manual setting
• Viewfinder: reverse telescopic finder, separate eyepiece
• Rewind Button: On the top plate.
• Rewind release: Lift the wind knob
• Flash PC Socket: On the lens-shutter barrel
• Memory Dial: on top of the winding knob
• Self-timer: Lever on the shutter button
• Bottom Plate: Removably attached, opens by a catch at the bottom.
• Tripod socket: ¼”
• Weight: 668 grams

Common Problems

Look for the following when buying a camera.

• Rangefinder dirty and/or out of alignment.
• Lens dirty, hazy, or damaged with fungus
• Your shutter may be stuck or running slowly.
• The film wind knob isn’t turning.
• When the film counter doesn’t turn when you’re changing the sprocket size, check for any dirt

Fungus Damage

If you can get your camera to take pictures, turn the shutter speed to T (for Time) and then point the camera towards a bright light. Look through the viewfinder from the back while looking at the picture you just took.

If you notice any fungus damage, it may be best to just let this go. Sometimes you can use parts from two different lenses to create a functioning camera.

Most things besides lens fungal infection can usually be corrected. If the lens has a fungal infection but isn’t etched into the coating, you may be able to clean the lens and it would still be usable.

For the Anastigmat Special lenses, the rear lens groups are cemented together, so check for separation, too.

How To Check your Rangefinder?

A rangefinder uses two front surfaces (reflection) mirror surfaces. They must be kept clean. To check the rangefinders’ accuracy, set the focus to “infinite” and look through the small viewing hole to see if the images line up.

Step 1: Remove screws holding the rewinding knob onto the spindle. Then remove the knob and spring.

Step 2: After removing the screws holding down the dial and spring washers, lift them up and take them out.

Step 3: Remove one of the screws holding the wind control knobs onto the sail. Don’t remove the knobs yet.

Step 4: Under the wind control panel is an assembly containing three small ball bearings and springs. If you remove the panel, the springs can pop up. If this happens, they can be easily inserted again, but it isn’t simple.

Step 5: If the wind control stick is stuck, you’ll need to remove it, clean off any old grease from the assembly and then reattach it.

Step 6: Remove three screws from the top cover and remove the top cover. You can now see the range finder.

When the lens cap is removed, you can see the rangefinders’ focusing system. Look at the RF follower arm for a moment. It moves the pivoting mirror when the lens is focused.

Adjustment

Step 1: First, loosen the screws holding the fixed mirror in place and slide the mirror until the two pictures line up.

Step 2: Adjust the vertical position of the fixed mirrors by moving the screw next to them.

Step 3: Before removing the old adhesive, use a solu­tion to dissolve the old glue.

Step 4: After setting the adjustment, seal the screws so they don’t shift.

Notice the slot in the arm connected to the pivoting mirror; this arm can be bent at its connection to the mirror to adjust the positioning of the image.

To remove the coupling cover, you must first remove the pivoted glass from its mountings. Look for the small shims under the glass mountings.

Later models have the screw holes located inside the lens barrel and you can remove the front cover without removing the pivoted glass element.

Conclusion

The Kodak 35 SLR camera is an SLR camera made by the Eastman Kodaking company from 1935 to 1939. It was one of the first cameras to use interchangeable lenses.

It was one of the several cameras in Canon’s “35” series including the 35mm SLR and the 35mm compact. It’s a very good performer, though it has some flaws that make it not quite suitable for serious photography.

If you have any questions, please leave them in the comments section below.